In many of the Japanese or Chinese cookbooks with recipes for Swiss rolls, you will notice that they like to roll the cake in reverse. This means that the visible surface of the cake roll is the uncoloured base of the cake, and so the brown crust is not visible as it is rolled inside the roll, if you know what I mean. It gives the impression that you have somehow peeled off the brown crust!
Recently as I was reading through a new Taiwanese cookbook all about Swiss rolls (孟老師的美味蛋糕卷), I came across a Matcha Roll that was reverse-rolled. The rectangular cake has a lattice design imprinted on the base of the cake, so that after the cake is reverse-rolled, the lattice appears on the outside of the roll! It looked so impressive that I could not resist trying it out.
However the recipe was quite complicated as there were 3 elements to be made – a matcha paste for the lattice, the chiffon cake itself and a matcha flavoured French buttercream, crème au beurre, which has a base made of pâte à bombe. As I had never attempted pâte à bombe before, it was a disaster! If you are not familiar with pâte à bombe, it is a mixture of cooked sugar syrup poured over beaten egg yolks and whisked into an airy mass. The sugar syrup had to be cooked to a temperature of 120°C and then poured, whisking at the same time, onto beaten egg yolks. I did not know what I did wrong, somehow the sugar syrup began to solidify as soon as it hit the egg yolks creating a hard lump! As it is winter, the mixing bowl and the egg yolks were probably too cold, as I consoled myself that was the reason, LOL. Somehow as I watched the disaster unfolding in front of me, I had a light-bulb moment, I quickly placed the bowl over a saucepan of hot simmering water and whisked vigorously. Thank goodness, after 2 to 3 minutes, the lump of sugar started to dissolve, but the mixture had also started to thicken very quickly, I quickly added a little of the butter and somehow was able to get something that resembled a buttercream, phew! As it was, the buttercream was not as fluffy as it should be, but it did look and taste alright in the end…
As for the roll itself, it looked presentable for a first attempt, the lattice was not as straight or spaced as evenly as they should be, but hey, I’m only a home baker… However, this method has given me ideas, imagine if you use one of those cake decorating stencil and stencil imprint of intricate design onto the cake, how impressive that would look!
I will not publish the recipe for now as it is rather a difficult cake to make, unless you are quite experienced in making desserts. And you can find the recipe on the net anyway.
Update September 24, 2011: I have added the recipe below.
Makes one 25cm long roll
Basic Chiffon Roll:
4 egg yolks
20g caster sugar
40ml canola oil
80g cake flour
5 egg whites
80g caster sugar
Matcha Lattice Paste:
15g butter, softened
10g icing sugar
15g egg white
10g cake flour
1/2 teaspoon matcha powder
Matcha Buttercream (Crème au Beurre au Thé Vert):
120g butter, cubed & softened
1/2 teaspoon matcha powder
Pâte à Bombe:
2 egg yolks
10g caster sugar
50g caster sugar
1. Preheat oven to 175°C. Grease a 34cm x 24cm baking tray (or any tray of similar size, original recipe uses 36cm x 26cm baking tray) and line with baking paper.
2. For the Matcha Lattice Paste, mix all ingredients together with a spoon into a paste. Transfer mixture to a small piping bag (or just use a small ziplock plastic bag with a tiny hole cut in one corner for piping) and pipe parallel lines onto the baking paper in the baking tray. Then pipe across the parallel lines to create a lattice pattern. Put the tray into the refrigerator to firm up the lattice lines so they won’t dissolve into the cake batter when it is poured onto them later on.
3. For the Chiffon Cake, beat egg yolks and 20g sugar until sugar dissolves. Whisk in the oil, then the milk. Fold in the flour and set aside. In another bowl, whisk egg whites until soft peaks. Add 80g sugar, in three to four batches, and whisk until stiff. Fold 1/3 of the beaten egg whites into the yolk mixture first then repeat two more times until all the beaten egg whites are mixed in.
4. Pour the cake batter into the prepared tin over the lattice. Smooth the surface and give the tin a gentle tap on the bench to settle the batter. Put into the oven and bake for about 15 minutes, or until the surface of the cake feels springy when touched.
5. In the meantime, make the Matcha Buttercream filling (since I made such a mess of it, I will just give you a quick description of the way to make it). Beat egg yolks and 10g sugar until sugar dissolves. Make a sugar syrup by simmering the water and 50g sugar over low heat until the temperature reaches 118 to 120°C on the sugar thermometer. Remove from heat and pour the hot sugar syrup slowly into the egg yolk mixture, whisking with a electric beater at the same time. Beat until the mixture has returned to room temperature, thickened and become pale in colour. Then gradually beat in the softened butter until fluffy. Lastly mix in the matcha powder.
6. When the cake is cooked, remove from oven and immediately slide the cake onto a cooling rack, right-side up with the lining paper still attached. Wait 5 minutes, then place a tea towel onto the cake, carefully turn the cake upside-down, and peel off the lining paper. Place a new sheet of baking paper on top and carefully turn the cake back over again so it is the right-side up. Remove the tea towel and let cool for another 10 minutes or so until lukewarm.
7. Trim off one short side at an angle so the end will seal neatly after rolling up. Make three shallow cuts near the other short end (this end is where you start rolling up). Trim off the edges of the two long sides to facilitate rolling up.
8. Spread filling onto the cake and roll up starting at the short end with the three shallow cuts. Wrap the baking paper over the roll to keep it stable for 30 to 60 minutes before cutting and serving.
Taste: Soft, fluffy & moist Swiss roll with green tea flavour
Consume: Best within 3-4 days
Storage: Best store in an airtight container in the refrigerator
Recipe Reference(s): “抹茶豆沙蛋糕卷” recipe from the Chinese cookbook “孟老師的美味蛋糕卷” by 孟兆慶 老師
Below’s a short YouTube video of rolling Swiss roll from a professional in Taiwan:
As seen on : 瑞士捲專賣預購-製作成形過程