
There are two main types of layered Chinese Flaky Pastry, the Huaiyang-style (淮揚酥皮) and the Cantonese-style (廣式擘酥). The pastry snacks made with Huaiyang-style pastry are more common and can be found in streets and shops, whereas the Cantonese-style pastry snacks are more of a speciality and usually only found in dim sum restaurants. In this post, I will be concentrating only on the Huaiyang-style flaky pastry, I will leave the Cantonese-style to a future date, if when I do decide to try my hand on making some snacks using that pastry.
The Huaiyang-style flaky pastry is the generic layer pastry in Chinese-speaking world and well known to every Chinese. It is also easier and quicker to make than the Cantonese-style – the Cantonese-style flaky pastry is more comparable to the western puff pastry where it is more time consuming to prepare. When Chinese talk about Chinese flaky pastry (酥皮), they most probably refer to the Huaiyang-style pastry, so I will refer to the Huaiyang-style flaky pastry as ‘Chinese Flaky Pastry’ from here on.
The Chinese flaky pastry is basically made up of two separate dough, one referred to as the water dough (水油麵皮), the other the lard or shortened dough (油酥麵皮). The basic water dough consists of flour, water and lard in the proportion of roughly 5 : 2-2.5 : 1-1.25 depending on recipes. In some recipes, a little bit of sugar or salt is added for flavour, but traditionally no flavouring is added. Although lard is the traditional fat used, nowadays shortening, butter or margarine, or even liquid cooking oil could also be used instead of lard, depending on recipes. The lard dough consists of flour and lard in the proportion of roughly 2 : 1.
After the water dough and lard dough are mixed separately, the lard dough is wrapped inside the water dough, then the combined dough is layered by rolling and folding similar to making puff pastry. Two methods are used to accomplish the layering of the dough, the large-scale method (大包酥) or the small-scale method (小包酥). The large-scale method is quick and able to produce a larger quantity in a shorter time frame but the resultant layers are not as distinct and delicate. The small-scale method is slow and more suitable for preparation in domestic homes in small quantity, but it produces a more distinct and delicate layering effect. I will only show the small-scale method here in this post, as I had previously done the larger-scale method shown here.
Once the layering is done, the resultant dough pieces can be used to produce three different types of shaping – hidden layering (暗酥), half-hidden layering (半暗酥) and visible layering (明酥).
With the hidden layering, the layering cannot be seen on the outside of the end product, as the layering is in the cross-section. This is the easiest and most common method for beginners to master.
The half-hidden layering is one where only half of the layering is visible on the outside of the end product. I have only read about this and have not seen the actual end product with this shaping, so I will not show how to do this here at the present time.
As the name implies, the visible layering is one where the layering can be seen on the outside of the end product. Within the visible layering, there are spiral layering (圓酥) and parallel layering (直酥).
So now, here are the basic techniques of making and shaping Chinese Flaky Pastry.
Technique for Making Chinese Flaky Pastry using Small-Scale Method
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1. First make the water dough and lard dough separately according to recipe. Divide the water dough and lard dough into small equal portions according to the recipe. Take a piece of water dough and a piece of lard dough. Roll out the water dough into a flat circle. Place the rounded lard dough in the centre of the flat circle.
2. Gather the outer edges of the water dough circle and wrap up the lard dough ball.
3. Pinch and seal the edges.

4. With the heel of your palm, gently press the dough down to flatten it lightly.
5. Using a small rolling pin, roll out the dough.
6. Roll the dough up Swiss-roll style.
7. Make sure you roll it tight.

8. Turn the rolled dough 90 degrees.
9. Roll out the dough again.
10. Roll up Swiss-roll style again
11. Cover the dough and rest for 15 minutes and then it is ready for filling and shaping.
Technique for Hidden Layering shaping 暗酥

12. With the heel of your palm, gently press the dough down to flatten it lightly.
13. Roll out the dough.
14. Place filling in the centre.
15. Gather the outer edges of the dough circle and wrap up the filling.

16. Pinch and seal the edges making sure the seal is tight. (This is ready for baking if the recipe calls for pau shape.)
17. Turn the dough upside down so the sealed end is underneath.
18. Egg wash the surface if desired and bake or deep-fry according to recipe.

Baked Hidden-Layering Pastry (with egg wash).

The cross-section of Baked Hidden-Layering Pastry.
Technique for Visible Layering – Spiral (Escargot) shaping 圓酥

1. Proceed with Technique for Making Chinese Flaky Pastry using Small-Scale Method up to step 11.
2. Cut the dough crosswise into two pieces.

3. The cut surface reveals the spiral layering.

4. Turn the dough so the cut surface is facing downward.
5. With the heel of your palm, gently press the dough down to flatten it lightly.
6. Roll out the dough.
7. Place filling in the centre.

8. Gather the outer edges of the dough circle and wrap up the filling.
9. Pinch and seal the edges making sure the seal is tight.

10. Turn the dough upside down so the sealed end is underneath. Bake or deep-fry according to recipe (do not egg wash as it will destroy the layering effect).

Baked Spiral-Layering Pastry.
Technique for Visible Layering – Parallel shaping 直酥

1. Proceed with Technique for Making Chinese Flaky Pastry using Small-Scale Method up to step 11.
2. Cut the dough lengthways into two pieces.

3. The cut surface reveals the parallel layering.

4. Turn the dough so the cut surface is facing downward.
5. With the heel of your palm, gently press the dough down to flatten it lightly.
6. Roll out the dough.
7. Place filling in the centre. Gather the outer edges of the dough circle and wrap up the filling.

8. Pinch and seal the edges making sure the seal is tight.
9. Turn the dough upside down so the sealed end is underneath. Bake or deep-fry according to recipe (do not egg wash as it will destroy the layering effect).


Baked Parallel-Layering Pastry.

Hi, thank you so much for your patient in explaining in detail the chinese pastry. I used to bake brownies & slices and am now looking forward in learning the art of chinese pastry and am very grateful to experts like you from the net who endlessly provide indept informations. Thank you again and looking forward to your knowledge on the cantonese-style pastry.
Comment by julieneadu — August 2, 2008 @ 11:13 pm |
julieneadu,
You’re welcome.
Comment by SeaDragon — August 4, 2008 @ 9:36 pm |
Your blog is interesting!
Keep up the good work!
Comment by AlexM — August 16, 2008 @ 9:34 pm |
I tried this flaky pastry using shortening and the pastry is actually very hard, though the layers are only on the inside.(hidden layering, I suppose)
Did you used some food colouring in the oil dough so that after baking, the layers can be visible, if not, I found the whole thing so “white” and pale?
It is really what I would like to try again (3rd time) using lard instead of shortening, as I find it is not “flaky” enough.
Thks so much for the step by step pics and instructions. Truly a great “si-foo”! Will let you know of my trial!
Comment by mumsy — August 26, 2008 @ 2:40 pm |
Tried with your step by step with lard instead of vegetable shortening this time. Tried both the spiral and parallel methods for different fillings – taro and lotus paste respectively.
The result – TOTALLY AWESOME! Texture – MELT IN MOUTH!
Thks again! I used a wee drop of pandan paste in the oil dough and it came out with the lightest tinge of pale, pale green and white stripes.
JUST AWESOME!
Comment by mumsy — August 27, 2008 @ 3:33 pm |
AlexM,
Thanks.
mumsy,
So happy to hear you have success with the flaky pastries now, it makes my day to know my post is of some use to you out there.
Yes, lard is the best fat to use to make flaky pastry, it gives the lightest and flakiest texture than using any other types of fat.
I didn’t use any colouring for this batch in this post, I used unsalted butter for the water dough and lard for the lard dough, the slight yellow of the butter provided the pale colour contrast here. As a matter of fact I’m also planning to do pandan lotus flaky puffs this weekend using pandan paste too.
Comment by SeaDragon — August 27, 2008 @ 8:37 pm |
hi,
after reading your post today I made curry puffs.I use a little food coloring and curry powder in the oil dough.too little i think since the yellow color or curry taste didn’t come through.I did encounter one problem. the water dough was soft and elastic and oil dough was fine . but i am having trouble keeping the oil dough inside as i roll out the layers. am I pressing too hard? i was as light handed as i can be.i use veg shortening since I’ve never use lard before. I was afraid it might have a smell or funny taste. any pointers on how I can keep the oil dough from peeping out. thank you.
diane
Comment by diane — September 5, 2008 @ 12:55 pm |
diane,
If everything went well except for the leaking out of the oil dough when rolling out, the most probable reason is when you wrap the oil dough with the water dough, the wrapping is not even. When you wrap, make sure that the thickness of the water dough is evenly covering the oil dough, that is about the same thickness all over. If some parts are too thick and some parts too thin, then the thin parts of the water dough will stretch too much and break when you roll it out. When rolling out the water dough, have the centre part a bit thicker than the edges, so when you wrap, it will keep the thickness even.
Also make sure there’re no air pockets between the water dough and the oil dough when wrapping, the air pockets will break the water dough too when you roll out.
Also don’t try to roll the combined dough out too thinly. Make sure also the oil dough is about the same softness as the water dough, if the oil dough is harder/firmer than the water dough, it will break the water dough easily when you roll out. HTH.
Comment by SeaDragon — September 6, 2008 @ 9:35 am |
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Pingback by Chinese Pastries — September 24, 2008 @ 6:04 am |
Hi SeaDragon,
First of all, I want to day your website is great! I always come here when I need some inspiration.
I have a question regarding making the doughs. Can I use Ghee instead of lard? I’m in Malaysia now…and as u know, this is a Muslim country, lard for baking is super hard to find. Will ghee yield the same texture? Or should I just stick with vegetable shortening? Please advice, and thanks!
Comment by Honey Bee Sweets — May 5, 2009 @ 12:41 am |
Thanks. Yes, you can use ghee, I have used it successfully previously. You can also use shortening, it should yield very similar result. Ghee is a natural product and give a buttery flavour, while shortening is man-made, so it is up to you which is your preference.
Comment by SeaDragon — May 10, 2009 @ 6:45 pm |
Hi SeaDragon,
I just made these with ghee and the end result is very yummy! Thanks so much for sharing this great recipe.
Comment by Honey Bee Sweets — May 11, 2009 @ 2:02 pm |
No worries, glad to hear you have success using ghee.
Comment by SeaDragon — May 13, 2009 @ 10:36 pm |
Hi Sea Dragon,
Where is your recipe for this pastry? Please provide the link as I was unable to find it in your recipe index.
As well, where can I find your char siu filling recipe?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Cheers!
Comment by tee — May 25, 2009 @ 12:31 pm |
Oh, never mind! You had it filed as ‘Char Siu Pao’. I was looking for it under ‘Char Siu Soh’.
I’m so glad I discovered your blog by the way. I really appreciate the photos and step by step instructions!
Cheers!
Comment by tee — May 25, 2009 @ 4:40 pm |
tee,
Yes, the recipe for the pastry are filed under each individual recipe, and not under this post since each recipe for the pastry varies according to the texture you want to get out of it.
Comment by SeaDragon — May 27, 2009 @ 10:21 pm |
[...] use the pastry, the best resource for me was this site form Corner Cafe. This site shows you the various techniques on how to fold and shape the [...]
Pingback by Family Secrets – Empanada « Trissalicious — October 17, 2009 @ 9:43 pm |
Is it possible to steam bake chinese pastries? I mean steam baking in a pan covered by foil to prevent steam from touching the pastries. Does steam baking get hot enough to cook flaky pastries?
Comment by VaporChef — December 4, 2009 @ 9:06 pm |
Hmmm, don’t think it will work by steam-baking. Flaky pastry is either deep-fried or baked. Even if you wrap with foil it won’t be an airtight seal, water vapour may get in and make the pastry soggy.
Comment by SeaDragon — December 5, 2009 @ 10:45 am |
I steamed my first cheesecake in a 6.5-inch bundt pan today. It’s basically a sponge cake with cream cheese and it came out very well. Although the original recipe said to steam in an open pan, I covered the top of the bundt tube and pan with foil, tied round with string, to prevent moisture from entering – like an English pudding.
The steamed cheesecake turned out so well that I may try steaming a flaky pastry next week, just to see what happens. I don’t expect it to brown or have a crunchy outer surface.
Comment by VaporChef — December 5, 2009 @ 1:53 pm |